Based on characterizations and stereotypes, any resemblance to actual events or persons living or dead is, well, Purely Coincidental...(though you do get extra points if you can figure out the category where I appropriately belong)
PLOT: Following the myriad of teachers, students, and other foreigners living in Harbin, China as they eat, drink, and indulge in a life of debauchery outside their home countries.
SETTING: Harbin, China has been an international/multicultural city in the northeast of China for over a century. In addition to the majority Chinese population, the city hosts Russians, Koreans, Japanese, Americans, Canadians, Europeans who have set up permanent or temporary homes. Harbin winters are described as cold, dark, and lonely as the Siberian winds sweep down and descend upon the town. In contrast to the winters, Harbin summers are filled with refreshing cool nights spent in one of the city’s beer gardens where draft beer continuously flows to be consumed with barbecue kebabs. A 3:30 am sunrise ensures that ‘partying ‘til dawn’ happens often and happens hard.
MAIN CHARACTERS:
The Australian Bar Owners: Risky and Savvy describe these young, male Australians who, after a few years of living in Harbin and frustrated with the nightlife, open their own bar. Décor does not define this bar; rather cheap drinks and loud music. These guys play ‘Jack@ss’ and ‘Beavis and Butthead’ DVDs on the TV above the bar, have set up a half pipe in the back room, and offer regular evenings packed with drinking games.
The Russian/European Drinkers: The drinking habits of these guys follow the laws of ‘faster’ and ‘harder.’ There are no limits as to how much one can drink each night. Days are spent resting off the activities of the previous night in anticipation of what the next evening will bring. Discussions center around the best way to cure a hangover.
The American Students: Loud and in packs are the telltale signs of these American college students. They are here for a semester abroad, living off their parents’ money (with a highly favorable exchange rate) and developing tactics to circumvent the ‘strict Chinese learning environment’ they anticipated upon arrival. Their days are spent searching for the meaning of life in the Chinese they encounter; nights are meant to forget about the activities of the day by throwing back drinks.
The Chinese Girlfriends: Wholesome, Confucius-abiding Chinese women are not the native females one finds in Ex-pat Harbin. Instead, we find fluent in English girls who have strategized with all the Chinese online advice about ‘how to land a Western man.’ Their nails can’t get any longer and their skirts can’t get any shorter. They are well-versed in ‘Sex in the City,’ ‘Gossip Girl,’ and ‘Desperate Housewives.’
The Chinese Businessmen: Slimy, slick, and successful portray these well-connected men. Their friends are high-up government officials and their goal is to own the most successful bars in town. They use their money and connections to sabotage the Australian Bar Owners as best they can. The one advantage the Aussies have going for them, however, is loyalty.
The Narrator: An academic ethnographer who sits in the corner armed with camera and notebook, rarely getting involved in the events of the evening, except on the rare occasion when an argument about cultural criticism arises. Or to persuade the bartender to kick the creepy Russian who is harassing her Canadian friend out of the bar.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Monday, July 13, 2009
MJ Tours Rural China
I should have added this to my list yesterday. Even in rural China, Michael Jackson music lives on! I know we are all sick of hearing about his death. Ironically, a message from my dad complaining about the over-coverage of his funeral in the US made me think this story was worth telling.
I was in Shanghai when MJ’s death was announced. By that afternoon, a mall was playing his music. [On a side note, I was selfishly disappointed because for the first time in a while I had access to CNN International, but all that was broadcast for 2 days were people around the world mourning MJ’s death].
Back in Harbin, over the past two weeks, DVD stores have created shelves displaying his music and videos. University campuses have set up outside kiosks selling MJ T-shirts. It seems to have taken a week or so for the stores to get set up with all the MJ equipment but it is out in full force.
A few days ago, I was walking down the main road of my village in the countryside when I passed a small hole-in-the-wall barbershop. Its doors were open so I could hear the music. They were playing Beat it. I loitered in front of the store for a bit and the next song to come on was Billie Jean. They must have gotten a hold of a Michael Jackson CD.
I won’t say this village is in the middle of nowhere; geographically, it is near a major city in China. But upon entering the village, it feels worlds away from the modern amenities of a city. Yet, the legacy of Michael Jackson has found its way here.
I was in Shanghai when MJ’s death was announced. By that afternoon, a mall was playing his music. [On a side note, I was selfishly disappointed because for the first time in a while I had access to CNN International, but all that was broadcast for 2 days were people around the world mourning MJ’s death].
Back in Harbin, over the past two weeks, DVD stores have created shelves displaying his music and videos. University campuses have set up outside kiosks selling MJ T-shirts. It seems to have taken a week or so for the stores to get set up with all the MJ equipment but it is out in full force.
A few days ago, I was walking down the main road of my village in the countryside when I passed a small hole-in-the-wall barbershop. Its doors were open so I could hear the music. They were playing Beat it. I loitered in front of the store for a bit and the next song to come on was Billie Jean. They must have gotten a hold of a Michael Jackson CD.
I won’t say this village is in the middle of nowhere; geographically, it is near a major city in China. But upon entering the village, it feels worlds away from the modern amenities of a city. Yet, the legacy of Michael Jackson has found its way here.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Random
There's so much to write about these days that it takes far greater effort for me to think about everything and process it to a good post. So I am taking the lazy/abbreviated way out by writing a few random things that have been on my mind recently.
1. Xinjiang. This situation makes me sad. Xinjiang is a beautiful place with beautiful people. Beijing is doing what it feels it needs to do to maintain stability, but the power they have and their lack of sympathy in exerting this power is evident. I hope someday they will learn to listen. But I'm not Chinese and I can't possibly imagine their situation, which leads me to the next 2 points.
2. Ethnic Minorities. I work in a primarily Korean minority village. Most of the Koreans are not there throughout the year because they have opportunities in S. Korea or in China's larger cities working for Korean companies. Of the 55 recognized minorities in China, the Koreans are often lauded as the 'model' minority because they help bring foreign money to China, their children are well-educated, etc. Compared with the Xinjiang Uighurs and Tibetans, the Koreans are left alone.
3. Chinese society. The more I talk to people, the more I realize how many problems there are in Chinese society which don't necessarily get addressed. People tend to want to talk about all the great things China is doing, economically, while ignoring many of the social problems. One of the most frustrating parts about doing research in China because I don't feel there is space, in a broader sense, for policy advice. Or any advice, really. Maybe once I write my dissertation things will become more clear, but at this point I feel I am studying Chinese society and food/agriculture and really just learning (which is what I am supposed to be doing, I guess). I see limited channels or opportunities for practical, hands-on projects stemming from my research. In contrast, each time I read about agricultural policy in the US, I want to jump right in with my opinions. If I were an agricultural economist or scientist here in China, people would ask for my advice a lot. But as a social scientist, they want to teach me, not listen to me. And I'm fine with that, but sometimes I wonder what practical, non-theoretical results will come of all this work. Maybe its just getting people to think more about food...
4. Weather is a defining factor in what makes a good research day. Its true. The last month or so has seen a lot of rain. In the countryside, rain means everyone is inside. That means it is more difficult for me to wonder around the dirt roads and fields looking for people to talk with me. Even on non-rainy days that are really hot and sunny, people like to be inside a lot. Inside is pretty much consists of homes. When I am invited, I go into people's homes, but I prefer to approach people outside.
5. Marathon training in China rocks. Most people think I am crazy for voluntarily running a marathon here because of the air quality. But I have some American friends and we are going to run it together. So I've been training here and did the distance of a half marathon this morning). Harbin air in the summer is OK, especially after a good rain (of which we've had plenty). The best part is that massages here are done by doctors and cost about $3 for an hour massage. And if I have extra sore joints, they add some acupuncture in there.
1. Xinjiang. This situation makes me sad. Xinjiang is a beautiful place with beautiful people. Beijing is doing what it feels it needs to do to maintain stability, but the power they have and their lack of sympathy in exerting this power is evident. I hope someday they will learn to listen. But I'm not Chinese and I can't possibly imagine their situation, which leads me to the next 2 points.
2. Ethnic Minorities. I work in a primarily Korean minority village. Most of the Koreans are not there throughout the year because they have opportunities in S. Korea or in China's larger cities working for Korean companies. Of the 55 recognized minorities in China, the Koreans are often lauded as the 'model' minority because they help bring foreign money to China, their children are well-educated, etc. Compared with the Xinjiang Uighurs and Tibetans, the Koreans are left alone.
3. Chinese society. The more I talk to people, the more I realize how many problems there are in Chinese society which don't necessarily get addressed. People tend to want to talk about all the great things China is doing, economically, while ignoring many of the social problems. One of the most frustrating parts about doing research in China because I don't feel there is space, in a broader sense, for policy advice. Or any advice, really. Maybe once I write my dissertation things will become more clear, but at this point I feel I am studying Chinese society and food/agriculture and really just learning (which is what I am supposed to be doing, I guess). I see limited channels or opportunities for practical, hands-on projects stemming from my research. In contrast, each time I read about agricultural policy in the US, I want to jump right in with my opinions. If I were an agricultural economist or scientist here in China, people would ask for my advice a lot. But as a social scientist, they want to teach me, not listen to me. And I'm fine with that, but sometimes I wonder what practical, non-theoretical results will come of all this work. Maybe its just getting people to think more about food...
4. Weather is a defining factor in what makes a good research day. Its true. The last month or so has seen a lot of rain. In the countryside, rain means everyone is inside. That means it is more difficult for me to wonder around the dirt roads and fields looking for people to talk with me. Even on non-rainy days that are really hot and sunny, people like to be inside a lot. Inside is pretty much consists of homes. When I am invited, I go into people's homes, but I prefer to approach people outside.
5. Marathon training in China rocks. Most people think I am crazy for voluntarily running a marathon here because of the air quality. But I have some American friends and we are going to run it together. So I've been training here and did the distance of a half marathon this morning). Harbin air in the summer is OK, especially after a good rain (of which we've had plenty). The best part is that massages here are done by doctors and cost about $3 for an hour massage. And if I have extra sore joints, they add some acupuncture in there.
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